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I've been knitting 60 years and love the adventure and the journey. I live on the far left coast of California, right next to the Pacific Ocean, in a fog belt that enables me to wear wool comfortably 360 days a year.

My Norwegian sweater, a journey

imagePeer GyntIn 1969 I spent the summer traveling in Europe, by myself. I had convinced my parents that attending five weeks of summer school in Oslo and the remaining six weeks traveling  by myself with a backpack constituted a “structured” and “supervised” traveling experience. While in Oslo I met the man who was to become my first husband. After the summer I returned to NYU, graduated early, and in January (January? In Norway? Young love, and that is my final word on that subject) I returned and we lived in Bergen on the west coast. There I found work at the Bristish Embassy and discovered the joys of knitting with two colors.

i was struggling with tangled balls of yarn trying a stranded pattern when an English friend, living in the same dorm, mentioned that his Norwegian girl friend knit a lot of two color projects and never had tangles.  I ran up to see her, and immediately saw tthe solution: one color in each hand, one ball of yarn on each side of her chair.  I have since modified my hold for two colors, but that first project never tangled.

So when the theme of Meg Swansen’s fall workshop was set to be Norwegian sweater construction, it was finally time for me to knit one of my own. My first requirement  was it had to be knit from stash. Not a problem – I have sweater quantities of numerous fingering weight yarns. I decided on Blackberry Ridge 2 ply woolen spun yarn, in coffee and blue mist. Not traditional colors, but I didn’t want to knit black or navy.

Then I chose a pattern from Dale, traditional lice on the body and snowflakes on the yoke. The prospect of knitting 12 inches of essentially solid stocking stitch for 12 inches didn’t please me, nor did the the idea of knitting snowflakes. I hate snow.

Going through boxes of old patterns books and leaflets I came across Meldal by Peer Gynt yarns.  It is out of print but available for free on Ravelry.   Two colors, no snowflakes, no lice, and pleasing vertical lines.  So I swatched, on US 4 needles.  Because I had lots of yarn (and a bit more coming from Schoolhouse Press) I did a swatch in the round, with steek stitches, and 3 full pattern repeats. I also wanted to test out steeking the Blackberry Ridge to be sure it would hold together. Swatched, crocheted the steek, cut it open, washed and blocked.  Did some math using Elizabeth’s percentage system modified for an ample fluffy body, and fussed with the pattern repeat to fit the number of stitches I needed and to balance the pattern so it mirror-images itself at the fronts.  I will be casting on and knitting the rib flat, then I will cast in the steek stitches and motor on up to the armhole.  Dropped shoulders are not a great look on me so I will do a modified T shaped armscye.  The journey will continue.

More needles available!

It’s Spring! As a Knitter’s mind turns to new projects and new needles. A new pricing structure from Holz und Stein makes it possible to order individual needles, and to offer more options.

Ebony or rosewood fixed circulars are now $28 for US sizes 1-1/2, 2, 2-1/2, 3, 4 ,5, 6,and 7. Sizes 8, 9, 10, and 10.5 are $32 each. Lengths are 24 inches, 32 inches, 40 inches, 48 inches, or 60 inches, measured from needle tip to tip.  All lengths are the same price.

Ebony or rosewood Double Point sets of 5 needles are available in 5 US sizes and 4 lengths. Sizes are US 1.5, 2, 2.5, ,3, 4, 5, 6, and 7. The 4 lengths are as follows:
4 inch: $28 per set
5 inch: $30 per set
6 inch: $32 per set
7 inch: $32 per set

New limited edition Amarello (yellow heart) wood is available in Fixed Circular needles. This wood is commercially harvested in South America and is bright yellow with a fine texture and high luster. The finish is very smooth and flat. The same sizes and lengths as rosewood or Ebony are available, at $52 per needle.

Straight needles are available in rosewood or ebony with matching or contrasting knobs (ebony needle with rosewood knobs or vice versa).
Needles are available in 7 inch or 8.5 inch lengths, US sizes 1.5 through 7, at $28 per pair. Sizes 8, 9, 10, and 10.5 are $30 per pair.
14.4 inch needles are $34 for the smaller sizes and $36 for the larger.

Lace tips are available in all rosewood and ebony needles, $2 extra per circular, set of DPNs, or pair of straight needles.

Please order by email by Monday, May 23 to me at
Payment by PayPal only will be due by May 27.
Shipping to the US only, no exceptions, $10 priority insured. For orders over $200 shipping will be included.


Needle Sets

image image image image imageI have two sets of fabulous Holz und Stein needles, each in a custom- made case from Grace’s cases.

The needles are handmade in Germany from wood left after the manufacture of musical instruments. The cases are handmade of quality fabrics and materials in Oregon.

The first set is eight pairs of 7 inch straight ebony needles with lace points. They have rosewood knobs and are perfect for scarves, small shawls, washcloths or other smaller knitted items. The needles are smooth without being slippery. The set includes US sizes 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7. The padded, zipped case holds the needles securely in elastic and has a notions pocket on the outside of the case.

The set of eight pairs of needles in the case is $250 and includes insured priority shipping to the US.

The second set is eight ebony fixed circulars, each is 32 inches in length and has lace points.. The join is smooth and the cable flexible.   Grace’s Case made a specially designed case that is padded, zips shut, and holds each needle in its own snapped pocket that can be marked with the needle size.   There is room for several more circular needles.

The set of eight fixed circular needles is $325, including insured priority shipping to the US.

image image image image image image

Want both sets? Save$25!  $$550 for both sets in matching cases.


More Needles!

I am putting together another order for Holz und Stein needles. These are handmade from ebony and rosewood, left from the manufacture of musical instruments. Pick your sets from mini-straight needles, double pointed needles and fixed circulars. Orders need to be to me by September 21 and paid (PayPal only please) by October 9. Delivery will be in November.

Needles will be sold in sets in your choice of ebony or rosewood, with either lace (L) or regular (R) points.

Straight needles will be in your choice of wood with opposite wood knobs: ebony needles have rosewood knobs and rosewood needles have ebony knobs. Sets are either 7 inches long or 9 inches long.  DPNs have 5 needles in each size, and come in lengths from 4 inches through 7 inches long.

On your order form include your name, mailing address, email address, and Ravelry user name. Priority shipping to the US only is included. Be sure to indicate your choice of set, your choice of wood, length for fixed circulars, and your choice of point.

You can scan the order form and email it to me: or just put all the requested information in an email. Thanks!

Name _____________________________________________________

Mailing address_______________________________________________


Email ______________________________________________________

Ravelry user name_____________________________________________


SET DPN A: US sizes 1.5, 2, 2.5, and 3 (2.5 mm, 2.75 mm, 3.0 mm, and 3.25 mm)
4 sizes; 5 needles per size
4 inches (glove needles) $135
5 inches $140
6 inches $145
7 inches $150

SET DPN B: US sizes 4, 5, and 6 (3.5 mm, 3.75 mm, and 4.0 mm)
3 sizes; 5 needles per size
4 inches $100
5 inches $106

SET DPN C: US sizes 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 (3.5 mm, 3.75 mm, 4.0 mm, 4.5 mm, and 5.0 mm)
5 sizes; 5 needles per size
6 inches $195
7 inches $205
(ADD US SIZE 9 (5.5 mm) to a 6 inch set: add $40)
(ADD US SIZE 9 (5.5mm) to a 7 inch set: add $42)


STRAIGHT SET A 7 inch Straight Needles
US Sizes 1.5, 2, 2.5, and 3 (2.5 mm, 2.75 mm, 3.0 mm, and 3.25 mm)
4 sizes, 1 pair of needles per size $135

STRAIGHT SET B 7 inch Straight Needles
US Sizes 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 (3.5 mm, 3.75 mm, 4.0 mm, 4.5 mm, and 5.0 mm)
5 sizes, 1 pair of needles per size $205

STRAIGHT SET C 9 inch Straight Needles
US Sizes 2.5, 3, 4, and 5 (3.0mm, 3.25 mm, 3.5 mm, and 3.75 mm
4 sizes, 1 pair of needles per size $145

STRAIGHT SET D 9 in Straight Needles
US Sizes 6, 7, 8, 9 (4.0 mm, 4.25 mm, 5 mm, 5.5 mm)
4 sizes, 1 pair of needles per size $150


Each set of fixed circular needles will be the same length. Your choice of length should be indicated on the order form; all lengths are the same price. Lengths include the 5 inch needle shaft and the cable. Lengths available: 16 inches, 24 inches, 28 inches, 32 inches, 40 inches, 48 inches, or 60 inches.

CIRC SET A: US sizes 2, 2.5, 3, (2.75 mm, 3.0 mm, 3.25 mm)
3 circular needles $110

CIRC SET B: US sizes 4, 5, and 6, (3.5 mm, 3.75 mm, and 4.0 mm)
3 circular needles $115

CIRC SET C: US sizes 7, 8, and 9 (4.5 mm, 5.0 mm, 5.5 mm)
3 circular needles $120

Number of sets
ordered Select your Set WOOD (ebony or rosewood) TIP (lace or regular)

Top Down, Set-In Sleeves Knit Along


This is not an actual pattern but more of a format, a method, for making your own top down, set-in sleeve sweater. It assumes some knowledge not only of knitting but also a minimum of design experience. The basic shape is based on Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Percentage System. More details about the method can be found in most of her books as well as many designs written by her daughter, Meg Swansen.

I recommend that for your first top-down you select a simple shape and simple stockinette. If you are more adventurous you can add some cables on the front, back and/or sleeves but be aware that cables have a smaller gauge than stockinette so you’ll have to accommodate for that in figuring out your numbers.

First you’ll knit a LARGE gauge swatch to find Your Gauge in Your yarn. I will explain how I arrive at the numbers, but the numbers will apply to My Sweater.

If you want to skip the designing part, pick a simple stockinette sweater pattern with set-in sleeves. It’s fine to pick one that is knit bottom up. You can work to the armhome, then being sure to slip the first st on every row, work the decreases up to the shoulder, connect the shoulders using a 3-needle bindoff. You can pick up stitches to knit sleeves top down in almost any set-in sleeve arm hole. A few simple examples; Katharine Hepburn Cardigan by Kathy Zimmerman, Drift by Norah Vaughn, Bignette by Amy Herzog or East Village by Josh Bennett.

Top Down Sleeve – My sweater will be knit in Cascade 220 at a gauge of 5 sts/7 rows per in and using needles US 5 and 7

MAKE A GAUGE SWATCH at least 40 stitches wide and 5 inches long. Wash and pin out the swatch to dry as you will the sweater. Let it rest a couple of hours before measuring.

I work all my swatches at 40 stitches. To measure my gauge I measure the entire swatch, and then dive 40 by the width in inches. In a total fluke which never happens to me, My Swchat worked out, for this particular color of Cascade 220, just 8 inches, giving me a nice even 5 sts per in.

Measurements you’ll need:
-Shoulder width, measured on the back of your shoulders from the rounded bone at the outside edge of each shoulder.
-Full bust circumference
-Waist circumference if you want waist shaping
¬-Full hip measurement, if you want a-line shaping.
-Depth of wanted armhole
-Bicep measurement
-Length of sleeve from underarm to wrist
-length of sweater from shoulder to bottom.

There are numerous sources for advice on how to measure yourself. The best way to get a sweater to fit is to measure a sweater in approximately the same gauge as your sweater that fits you the way you want this sweater to fit.

The shoulder measurement IS THE MOST IMPORTANT measurement. If a sweater fits well in the shoulders the sweater usually will look fine and the rest of the shaping is easier. NO EASE is added to the shoulder measurement.

The middle section of the back shoulder will be for the back neck and should be approximately 50% of the cross shoulder measurement, and approximately 25% for each shoulder. Each shoulder section will be divided into 3 roughly equal parts, for the short rows to slope the shoulder.

FOR MY SWEATER: I need 14.5 inches for my back shoulder. This is a total of 72 st. Each shoulder will have 17 st divided for short rows into sections of 6 sts, 6 sts, and 5 sts and the remainder of 38 sts will be for the back of the neck.

The difference between your shoulder measurement and the finished bust measurement will determine how many sts need to be added in the armhole shaping. About 2-3 inches should be the bottom of the armhole and the remainder is added in diagonal shaping.

My finished bust measurement will be 47 in for a total of 235 sts, rounded to 236, 118 for the front and 118 for the back. I will need to increase in the armhole from 72 sts to 118 sts, a total of 46 sts.

The bottom of the armhole will be 2-3 inches, depending on how much difference there is between your shoulder measurement and your bust measurement. The rest of the increases will be done on a diagonal, 1 increase each side of the armhole every other row (EOR).

I will use 2.5 inches worth of sts at the bottom of the armhole or 12 sts to be added at the bottom. The remainder of needed increases, 22, will be added in the diagonal of the armhole shaping. Note that 11 of these increases will be on the back and 11 on the front.

Next you will calculate how many rows you will need in your armhole to figure out how many rows you will work straight. This is counted from the armhole edge of your shoulder so the short rows will not be part of the calculation. You will be counting from the shoulder edge.

I want a finished armhole depth of 9 inches, a total of 63 rows. I will need 2 rows at the end for the straight part of the armhole so I have 61 rows available. Of these, 22 rows will be used for the increases on the diagonal part of the armhole, leaving 39 rows to be worked straight. Since I will be starting the counting on the wrong side after my short row pick up (a K row) I will be able to start my diagonal increases on a K row. If it worked out to be a P row I would fudge one row so my increases would be on a K row.

Work the designated number of rows straight, being sure to slip the first st of each row for a chain selvedge. When you have completed the straight section you will increase 2 sts in from the edge using a M1 of your choice.
The K rows will be: Sl 1 WYIB (with yarn in back) K1, M1, K to last 2 sts, M1, K2
The P rows will be: Sl 1 WYIF (with yarn in front) P to end

After all of the diagonal increases are done, work another P row and then put these sts aside to pick up and work the front. You can leave these sts on a cable from an interchangeable set, on a thred, or on a straight needle.

That’s it for today. Tomorrow: we pick up the shoulder stitches for the front, figure out neckline shaping.


Feel Free to use my numbers and knit your sweater just the same as I knit mine. Just so you knot – I have narrow shoulders, not much of a waist, and hips significantly wider than my bust. My sweater will be roughly based on a sweatshirt I have that I like, with about 3 inches ease at the bust and no east at the hip. It will be A-line, with increases on both the front and the back, a shallow crew neck and gently tapered sleeves. There will be no ribbing but I will have garter stitch edges on the neckline, the sleeve cuff, and the bottom of the sweater. I will have no bust short rows or vertical darts, waist line shaping or pattern other than a small v shape of reverse stockinette stitch just under the front neck.

I use an old program called Sweater Wizard to generate schematics. Unfortunately this program is no longer available but I have put in the schematics generated by this program for my sweater. It shows measurements in inches, and stitch and row counts. NOTE that this schematic assumes you are knitting bottom up; in my instructions and in my knitting I work the sweater top down. A rough sketch would suffice; it doesn’t have to be drawn to scale but it should show all the measurements on one side and the number of sts/rows on the other. If you plan to have a stitch pattern, cables, lace, or colorwork I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you use graph paper or a charting program or Excell to create a chart so you can figure out where you want the pattern to start at the shoulders so it will work out with the neckline shaping you choose.


Back shoulder: 14.5 inches
USING SMALLER NEEDLE: Cast on 72 sts using a tight cast on.
Row 1: knit to last 5 sts on needle. Wrap that 5th st and turn
Row 2: purl to last 5 sts on needle. Wrap that 5th st and turn
Row 3: knit to 6 sts before wrapped st, wrap that 6th st and turn
Row 4: purl to 6 sts before the wrapped st, wrap that 6th st and turn
Row 5: knit to 6 sts before the wrapped st, wrap that 6th st and turn.
Row 6: purl to 6 sts before the wrapped st, wrap that 6th st and turn.
Row 7: knit across picking up each wrap and knitting it with its st.

Straight Section of armhole
Work 39 rows straight

Diagonal Increases:
Row 1: put a removeable stitch marker into the first slipped st and keeping edge st in chain selvedge, K 1 st, M1 ( I use the working yarn over the thumb increase – it doesn’t use yarn from the prior row as the knit into the bar increase does) K to last 2 sts, M1, K2.
Row 2: put a removeable stitch marker into the first slipped st and keeping the edge st in chain selvedge, p to end.

Baby Sweater: top down set-in sleeves

Top Down Set In Sleeve Baby pullover

Gauge: 7 sts / 9 rows per inch GET IT RIGHT. It probably doesn’t matter for this project if you are knitting it only to learn the techniques but swatching is an indispensable habit unless all you want to knit is scarves.

Yarn: fingering weight: 416 yards
Size: to fit 20 inch chest. Finished chest measurement: 24 inches.
From shoulder to bottom of hem: 10.5 inches

Skills needed:
Cast on, knit, purl, short rows (I use wrap and turn; Knitter’s Choice), increase by M1, decrease, casting on at beginning of row, picking up stitches, stretchy bind off
If you are not familiar with any of these maneuvers now is the time to dust off your knitting reference books or check on line.

Upper Back
Cast on 56 sts for back neck and shoulders, using a tight cast on such as long tail.
Purl 1 row
SHORT ROWS for shoulder:
K to the last 5 stitches on needle. Wrap that 5th stitch and turn.
P to the last 5 stitches on needle. Wrap that 5th stitch and turn.
K to the last 10 stitches on needle. Wrap that 10th stitch and turn.
P to the last 10 stitches on needle. Wrap that 10th stitch and turn.
Slip the first stitch then K to end, picking up wraps and working them with their stitch.

STRAIGHT SECTION of upper back
Slipping the first stitch of every row to form a chain selvedge, work even for 20 rows.

Do not slip the first stitch on this diagonal section.
Row 1: K2, M1, work to last 2 stitches, M1, K2
Row 2: P
Continue these two rows 6 more times: 7 increases on each side of back for a total of 70 stitches
Put these stitches on hold.  The cast on edge is at the top of the picture, in blue.  The red section is the straight rows and the yellow rows are the armhole increases.

upper back





Work both sides at once using 2 balls of yarn or 2 ends from the same ball.
Pick up first 14 stitches on left shoulder. Using second ball of yarn pick up the last 14 stitches on right shoulder. This leaves the center 28 stitches of the back unworked.

Work short rows to correspond to back shoulder shaping; note that left shoulder you’ll be wrapping and turning on a knit row; on the right shoulder you’ll be wrapping and turning on a purl row. You should end the short row section on a purl row. On the next row knit to end, picking up the wraps and knitting them with their stitch.

STRAIGHT SECTION of upper fronts

Slipping the first stitch of every row on both the armhole edge and the neckline edge, work 6 rows even.


Slip the first stitch of the every row at the armhole edge. Do not slip the first stitch at the neck edge.
Increase at the neck edge of both sides of the front, 2 stitches in from the last stitch, for a total of 4 increases on each side of the front for a total of 18 stitches for each side of the front.
Cast on 2 stitches on each neck edge a total of 2 times each side for a total of 4 increases for a total of 22 stitches for each side of the front.

Work to neckline edge of left front, cast on 12 stitches, and continue to end of the right front using same ball of yarn. You can cut the second working yarn leaving enough to weave in at the end.

NOTE: It is entirely coincidence that the neckline shaping on this sweater is completed just before the armhole increases. This may or may not be true on other shapes or sizes, in which case the neckline increases and the armhole increases might require working both kinds of shaping AT THE SAME TIME.

Work the same as the back; front will have a total of 70 stitches.

When increases are finished, p 1 row. Next join the front and the back.
Work across front, cast on 7 stitches, place a marker for the beginning of the round, cast on 7 stitches, work across back, cast on 14 stitches.


The purple section on the front is the short rows for the shoulder.  The Red section is the “work even” section for the armhole, the turqoise section shows the increases for the neckline and joining the two fronts.  The yellow section is the increase section for the armholes and matches the yellow section on the back.  Next step: Joining front and back.

top of the sweater showing front and back



I use Sweater Wizard, a sweater design program that is no longer available. It generates schematics, but a sweater knit top down with set in sleeves is not one of the options. I usually will generate the schematics to prepare the pattern to knit top down.  i will add the schematics from the program for this sweater.

Top Down Set-In Sleeve Pattern Template

Top Down Set In Sleeve Pattern Template

This is not a pattern in the traditional sense. It does not walk you through, step by step or row by row. It assumes that you are familiar with basic sweater construction, and it involves math. I still maintain that if I had been taught math using knitting instead of sports metaphors, I would be a whiz at adding and subtracting. The basic shape of the sweater is up to you, as is the gauge and any decorative stitch or color patterns.

I learned this method of design from Joan Schrouder (schrouderknits on Ravelry), a phenomenal designer, knitter, and teacher. The percentages used are from Elizabeth Zimmermann’s percentage system, modified in my case to fit my severely A-line shape. You can find the basic percentage system in any of Elizabeth’s books and in many of the patterns published by her daughter, Meg Swansen, at Schoolhouse Press.

Basic construction

The sweater is started with a large swatch in the yarn you intend to use, the stitch pattern (if any) you intend to use, and needles that will give you the kind of fabric you want. The swatch should be at least 40 stitches wide and 5 inches in height, or 2 complete horizontal and vertical pattern repeats. The swatch must be washed the way you plan on washing the sweater, pinned out to dry, (with or without any stretching depending on your stitch pattern) and measured after it is dry and has rested for at least a day. You need accurate stitch and row gauges.

The second step is to take accurate measurements. There are many books out there explaining how to do this, but I find the easiest way is to measure a sweater knit in approximately the same weight yarn that fits the way you want. The most important measurement is the shoulder measurement – I think if a sweater fits properly on the shoulders it hangs well and is flattering. Regardless of how large or small we are in other places, our shoulder measurement usually doesn’t vary that much. This measurement should be taken across the front of your body between the inside edges of the shoulder. You want to have zero ease, or possibly even negative ease of up to 1 inch, for the shoulder of your sweater so it will stay on your shoulder and not slip down.

The sweater is started at the back shoulders/neck. Using a needle 2 sizes smaller than used for the body gauge, you cast on using a very firm cast-on such as long-tail and still using the smaller needle, knit some short rows for shoulder shaping. Change to the body needle and knit down from the shoulder to the beginning of the armhole shaping. The first stitch is slipped on every row until you get to the increase section when you will work K1 or P1 as appropriate. Using a coil less safety pin mark the first row of the armhole increases on both sides. This is done with increases on each side down to the underarm. These stitches are then put on hold (a cable from your interchangeables or a piece of crochet cotton).

Stitches for each front are picked up from the back shoulder (leaving the neck stitches undisturbed) again using the smaller needle. You can either do both shoulders at once or one at a time. Short rows are worked to match the back shoulders, and then you work down to whatever neckline you want. The sample I am working on will be a pullover with a shallow square neck, because this is the easiest neckline and you’ll learn the construction method used and can then modify the neck and other aspects to your liking. You’ll knit straight down to where the neckline shaping begins and probably AT THE SAME TIME you’ll start the armhole shaping to match the back. When you get to the bottom of the neckline you’ll cast on stitches for the bottom of the neck and join the fronts. If you are making a cardigan you won’t join the fronts, but otherwise the construction is the same.

When the front and back are at the same point – at the bottom of the armhole – you will cast on stitches for the underarm. I usually use an e-wrap for this cast-on; it is flexible enough for the sweater to be comfortable. I put a stitch marker between the 2 middle stitches I cast on so I know where the “side seam” would be. Then you join the front(s) and the back and knit round and round until the body is the length you want. You can work bust short-rows, back slope short rows, and/or waist-line shaping; you can figure out where to start by trying on the sweater. Knit on to the bottom of your sweater and finish off with a non-curling stitch or work a hem.

Then stitches are picked up around the armhole for the sleeves. You’ll pick up every row on the sloped section of the armhole, then every slipped selvedge stitch on the straight part of the armhole down to the second sloped section, where you pick up every row. You’ll adjust the number of stitches by increasing or decreasing in the first row worked on the shoulder so you have the correct number of stitches for the sleeve. Short rows are worked (described once we actually start knitting) and on the last short row pick up one stitch on the cast-on edge at the underarm. Working in the round and decreasing approximately every 6 rounds, work to where you think the cuff should start, try the sweater on to be sure your measurements are correct.

So to begin – make your swatch, take your measurements, and get set for this adventure. We will start in January when it is time to start knitting for yourself again.

Ordering your Holz und Stein needles

It’s time to order! I need to have your order no later than November 30, 2014.
Please send an email to me at and be sure to include:
Style of needle: fixed circular, straight, or double point
Kind of wood : ebony, rosewood, or kingwood
Type of point: lace or regular
Size of needle in U.S. sizes
Length of needle
Once I get your order I will notify you if the cost, including shipping for orders under $200, and ask for a paypal payment. I will notify you the date the needles are mailed to you.

Holz und Stein Price list

DOUBLE POINTS  –  ebony, rosewood or king wood – regular or lace points


Length US size Price
4 inch 1.5, 2,2.5,3,4,5,6 32
5 inch 1.5,2, 2.5,3,4,5,6 34
6 inch 1.5, 2,2.5,3,4,5 36
6 inch 6,7,8,9 38
7 inch 1.5,2,2.5,3,4,5 38
7 inch 6,7,8,9 40
9 inch 1.5,2,2.5,3,4,5 40
9 inch 6,7,8,9 42


STRAIGHT NEEDLES  – ebony, rosewood or kingwood – regular or lace points

Matching or contrasting knobs (ebony knob on rosewood or rosewood knob on ebony needles.


Length US Size Price
7 inch 1.5,2,2.5,3,4,5 $32
7 inch 6,7,8,9 $34
9 inch 2.5,3,4,5 $32
9 inch 6,7,8,9 $34
11 inch 2.5,3,4,5 $36
11 inch 6,7,8,9 $38


FIXED CIRCULAR NEEDLES- Ebony, rosewood or kingwood – regular or lace points

Yin-Yang  – one side ebony and one side rosewood – add $3.00


Lengths: 16 inch, 24 inch, 28 inch, 32 inch, 40 inch, 48 inch, or 60 inch

US Sizes 2, 2 ½ , 3, 4, and 5:                      $34

US Sizes 6, 7, 8, and 9                               $36

US Sizes 10 (6 mm) and 10 ½ (9.5 mm)        $38


Orders over $200 get free shipping via USPS Priority Mail within the US

PayPal only

To order send an email to: nina at

Holz and Stein Needles!


H&S needles are handmade in Germany from pieces of wood left from the manufacture of musical instruments.  The finish is smooth and the needles feel wonderful in your hands. I will be getting an order of straight needles, double points, and fixed circulars in Ebony and Rosewood. Straight needles will be ebony wth rosewood knobs, or rosewood with ebony knobs. Your choice of length and point – regular or lace , which are sharper and have a longer taper.  Price list on email request to nina AT  Free shipping to the US with any order over $200.

Straight Needles with contrasting knobs

Straight Needles with contrasting knobs

Fixed Circular needles

Fixed Circular needles

fixed circular join

fixed circular join

Ebony Double Points set of 5

Ebony Double Points
set of 5